Get Wired

Its true! Rocket Ron is not the only gadget freak or techno babblist in the BMW Club.

A couple of excellent articles from Ray and Ian have shown that there is real interest in developing half decent communications between riders, and also with their pillions. I for one am a great supporter of the move from our members towards use of UHF CB as distinct from the old HF CB radios that we once deployed.

Having a minor interest in amateur radio, a wife who likes to phone at all hours of the day, a computing career background and penchant for some hi fidelity music, I was left with the inevitable challenge – How do you get all this set up on one bike, so that it does not all conflict at once? More importantly, how do I wire up my bike without turning it into some sort of Mad Max road warrior cliché, with holes drilled everywhere and wires hanging out like a bomb-makers nightmare?

So this article is about getting your BMW wired for sound, without pain and damage. It took me six hours to achieve the actual construction work. Add a few more for Internet searching and purchasing the parts and overall, it took about two working days. Having done it once, I could probably get it down to two hours, so the first thing is to ask others about what works and what was done. While this will achieve an overwhelming avalanche of conflicting information, you will not be short of opinions or advice to sift through, some useful, some crap – the difficulty is working out which is which! Ray has set up a few now, so he would be another good source of first-hand knowledge also.

As a good consultant, I would suggest you do your “business planning” first, by asking the following questions:

Do you ride with a pillion, with whom you wish to converse?
Do you want to be connected to others via CB? If so, which type?
Do you wish to answer your mobile phone on the go?
Do you want to be able to hear the music from the bike radio from inside your helmet (and also via speakers if fitted to the bike model you ride)?
Do you want to also be able to hear music from a CD player or MP3 player?

I wanted all of the above, without the pillion link (but the opportunity to add that later). Then comes the selection criterion:

Are you prepared to trade off hifi sound for a cheaper price?
Do you want the flexibility to remove it from your bike later?
Do you want it to be as “hands free” as possible?
Do you want the switching (auto mute) from the radio to your phone to be automatic?

I opted for high quality audio and maximum safety (ie auto everything if possible.) I also wanted to use the features of the standard R1150RT radio, but add an MP3 player, to be connected via the Tape slot (ie not rip out the whole radio and replace it). (This option, via an Apple iPOD, will be the subject of another article). Lastly, I was determined not to have to drill ANY holes in the panels or structure of the bike. As it happens, I ended up with just one, which is invisible to the rider.

After investigating five different systems, I opted for the Autocom system from the UK, available directly from Bluerim in Melbourne, or from the Canberra Motorcycle Centre. While this system is more expensive than many, the quality is brilliant, and a new model just released (Active-7-Smart (hereafter called the Unit)) is hundreds of dollars cheaper than the older Pro-7. It is also easier to fit, as only one side panel needs to be removed in the process, versus two for some other systems.

It comprises a small box of very smart electronics (about twice the size of a box of matches) with a couple of cables for the intercom, and other ports for optional cables to attach the phone and radio system. The Bluerim website at http://www.bluerim.com.au/ shows all the components, a configuration for the BMW R1150RT and a list of parts (This will suit most of the BMW bikes, but is slightly different for the K1200LT, GT or S). Most of the parts required are special leads to connect your particular brand of phone or CB radio to the base unit. In addition to this unit (which comes with one extension, headset and boom mike) I bought the following:

Cable 24 –extension cable to take leads to the front of the bike.
Cable 67 – Stereo Radio extension and switch set
Cable 25 – Coiled lead to replace the straight one to my helmet
Cable 50 – Phone lead
Adapter 51e – my adapter for a Siemens Phone – different for Nokia for example
Cable and adapter 74 – to connect my particular CB (a 2Watt Uniden)
Switch 133 – a “Push to Talk” switch, so that I do not have to use the auto VOX voice switch at all times.
A bunch of adhesive Velcro tape, lots of small cable ties, PVC tape, blade type power connectors and solder. (Autcom will sell you a kit with all this in it, if you ask).
You will also need some tools – side cutters, Stanley knife, 3mm Torx spanner (in the standard tool kit), pointy nose pliers, wire strippers, scissors, pocket torch etc. A multi-meter is useful too – I’m happy to lend mine if you need one. Good lighting is essential – organise a portable light stand if you are going to do this at night or inside a garage.

The only item I did not buy was the helmet kit for a pillion, which can be added later. The total cost of this lot above is about $650 (depending on what you buy). Note that some of the cables would be easy to make yourself, but they use very good, non-standard DIN type fittings – NOT readily available at Tricky Dicky’s.

So How to Set it up?

Getting organised to connect it all up makes a big difference, as does some well-lit space both around the bike, and on a workbench or table to work through the gear. Portable spot lights will help a great deal. The description that follows is for an R1150RT or 1100 – a GT, LT (especially) or S are all slightly different but the principles are the same.

Open all the boxes and lay the cables and connectors out on your workbench and work out how they all connect together. Check they fit your models of phone and CB radio.
Set your bike on the centre stand. Remove the panniers and seats.
Stand on the left of the bike, and look into the rear pod. You will see the computer connection plug on the right under cover, plus two black knurled knobs that hold the rear light assembly on.
Apply two square inches of adhesive Velcro to the Active-7-Smart unit and the mirror piece to the metal bracket that obviously spans the space under the rear bike pod. Velcro the Unit on top of this metal plate, so that it is in the clear, and unaffected by other wires, mountings or the bikes tail housing. Using Velcro will give you the flexibility to remove or move it later on.
Undo the two black knurled knobs inside the tail, and gently lift the tail light assembly off the bike. It will hang on the wires about 30cm down. Put the key in the ignition and turn it on – the permanent, tail light will glow – note it, as the black and red power cabling from the Unit, will connect here (so that the unit goes OFF when the bike is turned off!). (NOTE: the colour coding is DIFFERENT to the Australian standard –the brown/red is NOT the active lead, which can be tested with a multi-meter if you have one.)
Turn the ignition off. Remove the bayonet clip that holds the light bulb into the tail unit. Pull the slide blade connector off the light fitting and cut the slide off. Scrape the plastic off the wire for 5mm, and twist this to a cleared end of the red wire from the Unit. Solder them together with a new blade-slide and refit it.
Back at the Autocom unit, press-connect the extension cables (which will go to the rider and pillion helmets) and lay them along the top of the bike. Set the CB and radio cables alongside them. Check the length will be ok for each.
Go back to the workshop or kitchen table and set up your helmet. While this could be done last, if you set it up first, you can then test each connection as you go along. The kit will fit almost any helmet, with slight variations. The easiest is a full face, non-flip version, as getting the ear pads and mike in exactly the right position is easier. With the BMW EVO4, do the following.

Remove the visor to avoid scratching it (instructions come with the helmet).
Remove the neckband – two ways, just pull it out, or slide the fitting wire around until it comes out at the cheek side (you will need to unhitch one end from the helmet frame first).
Determine the left side of the helmet, upside down. The boom fits here, very neatly and firmly between the cheek pad and shell – it took me ages to work this out, but once found is just too obvious! The alternate is to heat-glue it onto the inside of the shell.
Lift the padded liner over the ears and find the pre-formed indent in the polystyrene liner. Fit the two earpieces inside these indentations, using Velcro. Hide the white wires under the lining and refit the neck pad.
Try it on. If the pressure from the earpieces is too high, then you can remove a little of the polystyrene – note that the manufacturer does not recommend this – but many of our members have made slight alterations here, using a very sharp blade – say 2mm off.

Go back to the bike and connect the helmet cable to the Autocom lead and CB cable to the CB – turn it on and see that everything works – the ignition needs to be on for it to be activated! The key matter here is that the earphones are right over your ears! (and the mic is over your lips – reachable with a kiss). If they are, and the power is connect correctly, then the sound should be great, in fact first class. (In Canberra, go to Channel 7 Duplex on UHF – there is almost always someone on!). Remove your helmet and set is aside.
Now for the interesting part. First remove the triangular panel that covers the bike lift handle. There is only one, finger screw to undo for this.
Find the small 3mm Torx (star or hex-like) spanner in your tool kit. Progressively undo the Torx screws around the left side panel. There are dozens of them, some in very hidden places: if necessary refer to the pocket manual for the locations. Note that most are the same 10mm silver screws, but there is one very long one at the front – remember where it goes! There are also two black screws on the lowest side. Put the screws in a jar cap so as not to lose them.
When you think they are all out, put your right hand under the fairing, near to the cylinder head and lift gently. It’s very flexible off the bike, so it will be obvious if one screw remains. Tilt it up and forward, so that a tab near the headlight slips clear.
Once it’s off, put it someplace where you won’t step on it, the cat pees on it, or the kids ride their bikes over it.
Now sit on a milk crate and take at least 10 minutes to look at the bike and get used to the frame and where the current wiring runs. You want to put the new wires where they don’t get cooked, ground or too splattered by stones and mud. The logical place is to run them along inside the top frame, then down above the exhaust and through a line that takes it to the front wheel well. Follow the other wiring where possible. Put all the cables in place and hold with a temporary cable tie or gaffer tape.
Rest the seat back on the bike and sit on it. Work out where all the parts are going to go – the CB, Phone, and PTT switch. There is also a switch in the middle of the stereo Hifi cable to mount – in the one hole. Swing the handlebars back and forth and watch where the cables go on full lock. The new wires must avoid being crimped or stretched also.
Mount the CB Radio. Some come with a bracket and some require you to make one. There appear to be two obvious places, the first being on the left handlebar, mounted on a bolt through the hole behind the clutch leaver, the second being on the dashboard at the right, using some Velcro plus the single screw in the right panel. I have tried both, the latter proving to be the best for visibility reasons. It also protects the radio in a rainstorm. Some people have also mounted their CBs at the rear of the bike (which requires less cables= lower $) to the front and side of the top-box.
Mount the PTT (Push to Talk switch) cable with the red switch on the left. I Velcroed it to the top of the plastic case on the top left handlebar, after trying it on the grip itself, which worked but reduced my ability to counter-steer to the left. Some people mount it under that left grip, but I found that my thumb mixed up the left-turn indicator switch with the PTT button, especially with gauntlets on. The alternate is to use the automatic VOX feature available on some radios. (note that the volume knob for the VOX is on the Autocom unit itself and must be set carefully to work).
If you are going to use your mobile phone, mount a bracket for it also (or be prepared to carry it in your pocket, with the cable coming from in front of the seat.
Third, run the cable for the stereo. It has a switch in the middle that needs to be mounted where you can reach it while sitting on the bike. It enables you to turn the sound from the speakers to your helmet and vice versa. I mounted the switch in the plastic on the left underside of the dashboard. It required one hole be drilled, but it would be invisible to a rider, if removed later. (To reach the right position, put the drill up from the front, between the forks). Otherwise mount it on a bracket on the handlebars.
Feed the coloured wires from this switch, to the front left side of the bike. The colours are very important, and match the wires mounted on the bike of which there are TWO sets (one thick and the other thin). READ the INSTRUCTIONS, then remove the plastic mounting brackets for each and pull the connector apart (using a small flat blade screwdriver to open the catch). You will now be able to tease the wires apart and prepare a bare piece of wire for each, to solder the incoming wires from the Autocom unit. Take your time, the colour match must be right and cutting the wire right through would create a special problem to fix! Pare a piece of insulation from each of the kit wires and wind them around the bared wires from the bike. Important - Solder and cover them with PVC tape. (I have a photo of this, supplied by David that makes it rather clearer – just ask for a copy by email).
Test the radio with your helmet on. You should hear all stereo channels (left and right) and be able to switch from speakers to headset. If not, check the connections. Start the bike and test again – no interference? If there is some, move the wiring around the engine and test again.
At this point, all should be working. Decide where you want the helmet cable to exit – most chose the front of the seat and to the right – and cable tie it into place. The pillion version should come from behind the rear seat.
Cable-tie all the extension cables in place, making sure that they don’t run over the hot places. Test that the seat will fit back ok, before putting the fairing back on. Stand across the bike and swing the handlebars from lock to lock – there should be no binding or rubbing, particularly with control cables. Check the space above the front wheel, by kneeling on the ground and looking up under the headlight.
Remount the fairing, front first, then the top around the tank, then the base. Fit all the screws, making sure to put the long one in the correct place. Any left? – check the hidden spaces around the cylinder head, if necessary using the handbook as a guide.
Refit the triangular cover, seat and panniers.
Set up the AM/FM radio with pre-set channels. The ABC FM Classic channel seems to be a particularly popular station with many of our riders! This allows you to change channel while riding and mute the sound, or change volume as well. When the CB crackles in, the Autcom unit – very clever really - automatically mutes the radio!
The same applies for your mobile phone, but remember to first set it for auto-answer when the headset wiring is plugged in!
Go for a test ride to someplace with a quiet road. Remember to take your earplugs if you use them – try 20db attenuation versions if they are too quiet. Try the CB through the Mt Ginni Repeater (Channel 7) to find someone to talk to.

Then listen to the radio as you ride into the sunset –(or chat to your pillion) – simply heaven!