Return to the Stories Page   I will follow him.... By Bruce Campigli "...I will follow him wherever he may go, there isn't a mountain too high or an ocean too deep..." With apologies to Little Peggy March and Al Bundy. It was Thursday morning, three days to get to Byron Bay before SAFARI proper started. A small group of intrepid riders formed at the Hall wayside on the Barton Highway. It was planned as a relaxing three days of just getting there, no real fuss and plenty of time. Taffy came out to wave us all goodbye, to take some pictures and proffer technical advice. We waited for the Macman to turn up. After waiting what was considered a "politically correct" time, and amidst a cry from someone of "f*** him, he knows where we're going anyway" it was start your engines. We were on our way to SAFARI. On the first day, our aim was just to get to the Commercial pub in Gulgong some 360KMs. We would also meet up with more riders as we went along. The weather was kind to us as we headed north through Yass on our way to Cowra for a cuppa. It was pleasing to note that the NSW Roads Authority was busy at work between Boorowa and Cowra, with new road works being undertaken. Yes, the road was in that magic state of "clay" with a large device similar to a shower head, intent on making the road more wetter than one can imagine. Our clean machines, less than an hour out was soon to have that tell tale skunk mark up through the engine bay to the fairing. With a glum look amongst some, and glee from others, we proceeded onto Cowra for a mid morning cuppa. As we dismounted at Cowra, and as if on cue, Macman turned up. It also provided an opportunity to discard the liners from the jacket. Because where we were going it could only get warmer. From Cowra onto Bathurst for a mouse's coffin at "Bernard's" famous pie restaurant. From there a leisurely 76kms to Sofala and another 110kms via -Ilford - Kandos - Mudgee - Gulgong. At Gulgong we met up with Greg, Jimbo and Nigel. Our first night out and we were happily ensconced in The Commercial Hotel, $15 per person twin share (in my case) with "follow him". It seemed a good idea at the time to put the two supposedly snorers in the one room. With pre-dinner drinks on the balcony, and utterings from some of "you will need to pace yourself", all was lost. As is sometimes the case, the hotel cellar had good quality bottled wine marked down from $11.00 (Canberra price) to $4.99 per bottle. The barmen said that he couldn't get rid of the stuff and so had it marked down. We did do our bit and gave him a hand. A good pub dinner read: cheap, was the course of the evening. I sometimes ponder how come the bush is doing it so tough? To this end I can only offer a thought that with breakfast consisting of two eggs, bacon, sausages, tomato, toast, juice and coffee costing $5.00 their basic business ethic is shot. We were instructed by the chef to pay at the bar, somebody should be there. Well at 7.45am the bar looked like no one had gone home - thick blanket of smoke with pots of beer and bundy rum already lined up and the locals ready for another day. Day 2 from Gulgong to Dorrigo via Coolah - Mullaley - Gunnedah - Tamworth. Again, just incredible roads and scenery. The ride up the hills from Tamworth, through the Moonbi range was "sweet", though the usual large vehicle in the wrong lane provided some moments of merriment (eh Jim). We stopped at Bendemeer for lunch. Macman being first man to dismount and headed straight for the bistro. He secured the last steak sandwich. The rest of us were left to gaze over a chicken teriaki roll with some form of bean curd. Of note was the bloke who was mowing the backyard of the hotel. He was just finishing his allotted work, but when you realise how much he had to mow - it must have been like painting the Sydney Harbour Bridge. By the time he had finished he would need to start again, a truly monumental task. Of other interest was a movie on SBS - the Eskimos do have quaint customs. Bendemeer was a real nice spot to stop and just take that break. On to Armidale - Ebor and Dorrigo. With a stop to look at one of Jim's ravines, or is it a gorge? along the way. The Dorrigo pub is huge. We also met up with Ron and Teki who had come from Canberra direct to Dorrigo. An R1100GS rider was at the pub that was also going on SAFARI. I have never ever seen a chook chaser in such an immaculate/clean condition. It even put Ron's bike to shame in the cleanliness stakes (until Ron could find a Car Lovers, that is). The Dorrigo pub cost around $17 per night per person. Here the food was a bit more expensive, though with a bigger blackboard menu to pick from and more than comfortable. After purchasing emergency packs of red vino the go was to play pool in the pub till we could not stand any more. As the fog started to creep into town, it was time to go to bed. I slept alone that night, as part of my little bit for the benefit of mankind and those with sensitive ears. Day 3. With an early start to the day, and with the fog having lifted during some part of the early morning, we were to head to Tyringham - Nimboida - Grafton -Ballina, our adventure route had begun. After moving north out of Dorrigo, it started to get really twisty, the further out the more twistyer it became. Indeed, further north, we ran out of road and into mountainous countryside and fire trails. Though we told by "follow him" there was only a few KM's of dirt, it turned out to be more than most imagined. Unfortunately we lost Macman early in the piece, he wasn't waving, he was drowning, it transpired later on that he had to return to Dorrigo - find the plumber who was holed up in the Butcher's shop, and have the gear shifter on his Funduro re-welded. "Follow him" was doing the right thing and was back-up rider. He went back to Dorrigo and returned a little bit later on with the Macman. On on went the main group, towards Nimbin. As we, on our beloved bitumen burners, continued through what seemed endless dirt. It was always reassuring to see the chook chasers scream past, leaving a lovely film of dust over one, and then shoot off into the distance, only to find, around the next corner a pair of them waving, with camera's out, hooting and hollering. The ruts, the steady climbing and descent eventually took its toll on the alloy wheeled ones. I learnt something new today, it would seem that spoked wheels absorb the shock better than full cast wheels. Peter proving this scientific fact by sporting a nice dent in his front rim from an encounter with dry rivulets (later to be fixed in Brisbane). Ross H who was a little behind the main group, saw the sign for Nimbin and took it. Unfortunately it was the wrong one. It eventuated that Ross had trekked to Nimbin through rivers, wooden bridges half down, mud holes, alternate village life and slides. Who ever said that a bitumen burner couldn't handle the dirt - well done Ross. Nimbin, what can you say about a town like that? Not my style I'm afraid, suits others, but not yours truly. The hinterland and surrounds are just magnificent though. On to Grafton for a mid-late morning lunch at an outdoor cafe. On the byways of one's life, you always have the opportunity to run into that...well, character. Paul Macc is one of those persons. We gave him a wave as he went past on his black beemer, socks on the spotlights to protect the glass, (or the socks were just drying out) bailing wire and other assorted material keeping the bike together. The bike has sported over three hundred thousand K's. He had a Harley like beard, helmet, sunglasses and black Harley apparel including a police badge. He spotted us, did a U turn against the traffic and headed back the wrong way to have a chat. He even offered sleeping space to us on our return from SAFARI at his farm. Though what he farmed may have been a little bit dubious. Arrival at Ballina meant the Australia hotel. $15.00 per night. Lovely wide-open pub, excellent meals and the weather very mild, lovely spot. As Macman and I studied the rugby and the bar entertainment that evening which consisted of a he/she playing pool and that person being promptly asked to leave by the hotel staff. On reflection, I think some of us may have been a bit too exuberant with the imbibing that evening. In the morning, one rider was pronounced dead and a couple of others were walking wounded. We left Ballina for Byron Bay around mid -morning, a nice little run. On to our accommodation, which turns out to be a managed Mirage resort when you're not having one, time for a nap, clean the bikes as best one could (with thanks to Gary for providing the wherewithal ). Some explaining their slackness for not cleaning their bikes by "donating their machines to a CSIRO entomology unit", while watching the goings on. Back to Byron proper for registration and a look at a lot of beemer bikes (500 odd) who had arrived for SAFARI. Another six days to go with no one giving any thought of how to get back. I am constantly amazed how beautiful our countryside is. How it can change from open plains, mountains green and seaside landscape. But what a way to experience it, on a motorbike. It was good to travel with people who had obviously done a lot more touring than I, and their knowledge of certain routes and roads paid off. For those technically/statistically challenged: Three night's accommodation: $47.00. The grog bill - it cannot be calculated. Petrol: No idea Mileage: Rough idea With thanks for their camaraderie in getting there: Jim (AKA Follow him), Greg, Ross, Peter, Nigel, Macman, Ron, Teki, Wolfe & Margaret. (I should make mention that the RT ran like a dream with no problems encountered over the two weeks including SAFARI. I added 4psi to the front tire at Rockhampton that was it.) Top of Page © ACTBMWMCC 2001 - not to be reproduced in whole or part without permission. Write to the Editor