Sunday:
Claire and I joined the other participants
on Pyrmont Bridge for the official start and
the police escort out of Sydney. What a disaster
the police escort was. Confined to one lane
we crawled through the inner suburbs whilst
the few cars that were on the road zoomed past
in the one or two vacant lanes around us.
I managed to accidentally (honest) get past
the police escort and found myself on an open
road with very little traffic and moved along
quite freely to the Motorway and out towards
Liverpool and Campbelltown.
I decided to continue on through the Southern
Highlands to Bungendore rather than take the
Adventure Route through Nowra-Nerriga-Braidwood
as I have done this road a number of times before
and didn't feel the need to go over old territory.
After a quick lunch with several of the Canberra
crew (who had taken the highway all the way
to Goulburn) I decided to rejoin the Adventure
route. I headed out to Captain's Flat via Hoskintown.
From Captain's Flat I continued south for approximately
20 kms before turning left onto Anembo Road,
a gravel road that leads up to Mt Anembo. After
about 10 kms I turned right onto Slap Up fire
trail. The standard of road declined to a rougher
gravel and stone track that continued up to
the top of the ranges. The road was quite slippery
in patches due to loose stone and then became
just two wheel tracks with grass growing in
between. I was moving quite quickly (about 80kph)
but still taking it easy as I was well aware
that I was not on the official route and there
would be no support vehicles sweeping this route.
From the state of the road there may be no vehicle
at all along here for many days. After about
20 kms of this I was back onto the official
route and a smooth high speed gravel road.
I cruised along on this road for 15kms before
hitting a few potholes and then realising that
my left pannier was missing. There was no sign
of it where I had hit the holes so I slowly
rode back over the last 15kms looking for it.
Nigel McFarlane joined me for a while but we
didn't find it. I then turned back onto the
fire trail as it was much rougher and I figured
it was more likely for the pannier to have detached
on that part of my journey. After a few kilometres
I realised that the bike was handling differently
to what it had been on the way down - due to
the weight imbalance on the right side - and
therefore I figured that the left pannier must
have come off on the main road. Just as I came
to this realisation the right pannier parted
company with the bike and bounced off into the
scrub. At least I noticed this one going.
A quick inspection of the pannier and the bike
revealed that the rail that the pannier attaches
to had broken. There was no way the pannier
was going stay on the bike so I transferred
my remaining clothes into a duffle bag I was
carrying and headed back to the main road. My
anger at losing the first pannier had now turned
to bemusement. Having one pannier go down the
road and go missing in the scrub was upsetting,
having the second go down the road was just
plain ridiculous. I could only laugh.
I continued on to Numeralla and headed straight
to Cooma and then onto Thredbo. I had experienced
enough of the adventure route for one day.
Tuesday
The next major riding day was the run to Echuca
on Tuesday. Claire and I left early and travelled
through the snow up past Thredbo and then into
Dead Horse gap.
After being a bit cool to start with the weather
warmed into a comfortable day and we continued
on towards Khancoban. Going up the tighter corners
leading to Khancoban I encountered the first
of many riders on the safari who would go like
crazy on the straight, then scare themselves
silly in the corners, slow right down and hold
up other riders then go like crazy on the straight
as I tried to overtake. They were a real menace,
slowing other riders and making overtaking more
difficult then it needed to be.
Once through Khancoban the adventure route
turned right to follow the Murray river on the
northern side through Jingellic and onto Wymah
Ferry whilst the touring route went on the southern
side.
Shortly after taking the adventure route turn-off
I stopped to retie my luggage. I was interested
to see Claire pull up behind me. "Do you know
you are on the adventure route?" I asked. "
No" was the reply. "I was just following some
guy on an R1100S. I thought this must be the
touring route." After setting Claire back on
the correct route I continued on the adventure
route with Ben (R80Gs) and Peter (1150GS)from
Melbourne, David Arton (Club member from ACT
-1150GS) and Ian (Kiwi from Sydney on a R100GSPD).
Shortly after we hit the gravel we came across
a K1100LT and an R1150R doing a U turn. Obviously
they too had followed the R11S. The R11S was
encountered a bit further along on the gravel
and he stopped for a chat at one stage. He knew
he had taken a wrong turn but was travelling
quite well on the dirt and was obviously enjoying
himself. He was going to get back onto the touring
route later on.
About this time two riders on R80GS' both left
the road on a left-hand corner. First rider
(Greg from USA) had gone in too fast, the second
rider (Ben from Melbourne) had just been following
the first rider and followed him off in the
dust. No damage was done and after picking them
both up we continued on through Jingellic.
The road continued to wind alongside the Murray,
with some great views of the river and the surrounding
country.
Just before the Wymah ferry, Peter went into
a corner too hot and put his 1150 GS into an
embankment. It was a slow speed off in the end,
but his cylinder head had came into contact
with a piece of wood with enough impact to crack
off a few fins and split the cylinder head.
He limped onto the ferry and stopped on the
other side for an inspection of the damage.
It was decided that David and I would accompany
Peter into Albury for repairs and Ian and Ben
would continue on the adventure route.
We had timed our arrival at the ferry to perfection.
I don't think the dragon lady who drives the
ferry think has ever had so many customers in
one day and she must have been feeling a bit
overworked. A sign at the ferry asked us to
honk our horn to attract her attention so I
think she must spend most days lounging in the
sun or fishing rather than operating the ferry.
Our trip across the Murray was to be her last
before she took her one-hour lunch break. The
half dozen bikes that couldn't fit on our ferry
trip would not have been impressed with the
extended delay.
Oh dear (or words to that effect), what have
I done? Once in Albury we had a quick stop at
a Repco shop for high temperature silicon, and
at the BMW dealer to see if they had had a spare
cylinder head (no). The local welding experts
were out of the town for the day, so it was
off with the rocker cover and a bit of silicon
on the inside of the cracked head and heaps
more outside. After waiting for the silicon
to set and cleaning the oil off the bike we
had lost a couple of hours so we decided to
get to Echuca via the touring route. It was
flat straight and boring. Apparently the adventure
route was the same although one straight section
had claimed a rider who got caught up in the
sand drifts in the middle of the road. The result
was one damaged rider (collar bone and ribs)
and a very second hand R11GS.
Wednesday
Wednesday was a "rest day" but the adventure
route included a run through Barmah National
Forest, which sounded pretty interesting. I
set off at 10 am with the same crew I had been
riding with on Tuesday. The run up to Barmah
Forest was pretty good. Good smooth gravel through
farming country and native forest alongside
the river. Only drama was a sharp right corner
that was a bit hard to see in the dust saw a
few riders off into the bush. There was plenty
of run-off space so no damage or injury. After
Barmah township we headed into the forest.
It was a good road surface again with tighter
corners as we got into the forest itself. I
was surprised to see a number of people walking
beside the road and also some building just
inside the forest. Apparently there is an aboriginal
cultural centre (the Dharnya Centre) on the
edge of the forest which provides information
about the forest.
A locked gate on the road caused a bit of a
surprise for me and judging by the skid marks,
a few others as well. (These roads had actually
closed by the Parks and Wildlife people and
we shouldn't have been riding on them) We were
able to avoid the gate and ride around it without
any damage or major delay. Once in the forest
we spread out a bit due to the dust and covered
the 40-km loop quite quickly. The only points
of interest were a single water crossing and
a section that had been wet recently, which
had a number of ruts caused by wheel tracks.
A couple on a R100GSPD had been caught in the
wheel tracks and had gone down resulting in
broken wrist for the rider and some damage to
the bike. Some riders had already gone off to
contact the recovery vehicle. (The recovery
crew would have to deal with the little matter
of the locked gates before they could get to
the crash scene). You can have that all on your
own Nigel.....
After that it was plain sailing back to Barmah
pub for the off road school at 1.pm. Unfortunately
I had lost some bolts out of my instrument panel
and it was bouncing around way too much. I had
to miss the school as I headed back into to
town to chase up some bolts to ensure that the
bike would be ready for tomorrow's run to Warrnambool.
Thursday
Another fine day, only just a bit cool with
the prospect of a hot day ahead as we travelled
to the coast. I met Dave near KFC at 7.30am
and we headed out of town. Only got a few kms
out of town and saw Gerry and Mara from the
NSW Club stuck on the road with a flat rear
tyre. There was nothing we could do for them,
so we left them to it. Gerry had a temporary
fix kit and would plug it and head back into
town to get a professional job done.
The first part of the day was flat and pretty
straight. The roads were good, hard based gravel
and we cruised along quite easily without seeing
too many bikes, although we did see a few touring
route riders as we crossed their path near the
Burke and Wills monument.
Then it was into the historic town of Maldon.
This town was originally settled in the 1850's
as thousands of people flocked there seeking
gold. The gold petered out, most of the people
left and many of the buildings were moved to
other towns, however the remaining buildings
and town remained virtually unchanged over the
years. In 1965 the National Trust of Australia
gave Maldon the first ever classification of
"a notable town" for its unspoilt historic character.
Whilst stopped here we caught up with Ian (Kiwi
R100GSPD) and Nigel McFarlane (R100GSPD). (After
a quick morning tea we continued on our way.
After Maldon we had about 40 kms of tarmac
with a mix of tight corners and sweeping bends.
We had spread out a bit when I started seeing
the marker crew on their bikes coming towards
me. Either I was very lost or they were. Turned
out they were. Good to see that even the organisers
get lost on these routes occasionally.
About 15 riders had to wait on the edge of
the forest as Stephen Marshall and crew tried
to find the correct road. We all had about a
half-hour rest on the edge of the forest as
the marker crew sorted out which way to go.
Nigel and I waited until the others riders had
gone ahead and then ventured into the forest.
Dave and Ian had not shown up and we wondered
what had happened to them, however by this stage
Stephen Marshall had marked the correct track
into the forest which was a few kilometres back
up the main road, and it was likely Ian and
David had already found that road.
The road through the forest was pretty much
just one lane and mostly gravel before it climbed
into the ranges and changed to looser gravel
and small rocks. We rode fairly slowly enjoying
the scenery and the challenge of the road. After
about 30 kms we left the forest and headed into
Ararat for lunch. Once again we caught up with
the route marker crew who had stopped for lunch.
These guys really are human after all. First
they get lost and then they stop for lunch.
I am no longer in awe of them.
David and Ian had joined us for lunch in Ararat
after getting a bit lost in forest. After lunch
we headed south. About 40 kms from Ararat we
turned off the main road and down a nice gravel
track.
The gravel track soon turned into a sand track.
Unfortunately I was leading our little team
and as over the remaining 150kms to Warrnambool.
He need not have worried as we had left the
sandy soil behind, and the area around the edge
of forest had received 1 and a half inches of
rain about two days before we arrived. So there
was no sand - only mud.
Our first glimpse of the water came after about
2 kilometres and the water was notable for the
wildlife in it. In particular a large black
R11GS which was wallowing in the mud in an effort
to cool down or shelter from the sun or something.
After some coaxing the big beast continued
onto the next water hole where it performed
the same trick.
We followed tentatively and encountered about
6 similar stretches of road (up to 100 metres
long) covered with varying levels of water.
Of course after the 20 bikes ahead of us had
gone through there was plenty of mud and it
was difficult to discern a safe path through
the water.
By this stage our little group had expanded
to include a couple from New Zealand on a F650.
We took turns at being first to tackle each
section, having to guess which route was the
best through the mud and water. After a successful
negotiation you got to sit back and watch the
others come through before someone went ahead
to forge their way through the next section.
It continued on like this until we eventually
came to the end of the forest road and moved
onto an easy winding gravel road. After a few
kilometres of this we hit the tarmac and had
a high speed trip south to Warrnambool to finish
the day at around 5pm.
Friday
No adventure route for me today as I joined
Claire for a run along the Great Ocean Road
and then into Melbourne. I had missed the off
road school the day before my sand riding skills
were not up to standard. Once the front of the
bike started to wobble so did my confidence
and shortly after both bike and myself were
lying down in the sand for a rest. Finding his
preferred route through the sand blocked Ian
and his PD also decided to lie down. Nigel and
David got through okay but a few other tired
riders and bikes followed my lead and rested
in the sand for a while.
After about 3 kilometres of sand we were back
on gravel for a short while and then onto tarmac
for a few kilometres before getting back onto
a dirt road that skirted around the edge of
some native forest. After the sand track, Ian
had expressed concern about how much sand we
were likely to encounter
Saturday
The adventure route and touring route today
were similar. Out to Marysville and then onto
Reefton spur. The adventure route included about
30 kms of dirt around the side of Mount Donna
Buang. It was a mostly easy gravel road around
the edge of the mountain. After a brief detour
to the top of the mountain I discovered the
best part of the ride.
It was the 30 or so kilometres of narrow tar
road that twisted through a rain forest around
the side of the mountain. It was fantastic.
A smooth tar road with good visibility, nice
rain-forest surroundings and no other traffic.
It went close to being the highlight of the
entire trip.
Also in this area is an elevated viewing platform/
walkway (skywalk) which allows you to walk above
the rain forest floor and get up close and personal
with giant 250-300 year old, 60m tall, mountain
ash trees. These are truly amazing trees and
well worth the visit.
Mt Donna Buang also has snow on it in winter
time if you are in the area and feel like building
a snow person or just want to throw a few snow
balls. But why wait until winter when you can
go to Thredbo and do the same thing now.
Once at Marysville I was able to sign up for
a ride on the 1150GS. A quick ride out to Buxton
was made more interesting when farmer brown
decided to cross the road on his tractor and
hay cart just as the leading riders rounded
a sweeping corner at slightly illegal touring
speeds. We all survived and the return trip
was more sedate.
After the test ride I headed to Reefton spur
and then back into the city. I thought the adventure
riding was over for the day but after 45 red
lights, numerous Magna drivers, trams and the
congested streets around St Kilda I eventually
made it back to the Aston Apartments.
The adventure riding part of the safari was
over and I can't wait for the next one. Roll
on South Australia in 2003.