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Why?

By Jim Reid
from August 2000

The Safari was over. It was time to head south. Greg was reasonably OK, he was flying back courtesy of some low flying a couple of days ago. His bike and luggage were being looked after as well. Macca’s bike was going to the Sunshine Coast in the back of his brother’s ute for no other reason than that it probably wanted a rest. The rest of the Canberra mob were all heading home in a variety of directions.

On this pleasant Sunday morning at the Yeppoon resort I met up with Ron at reception. We checked out the various R1100GS wrecks and then commenced our southerly run. He was off to the Sunshine Coast and I was to spend a week at Woodgate, house building. We stopped an hour out of Rocky for a drink only to move on as the westerly breeze was wafting through a septic system in close proximity to us. We then had a very pleasant run all the way to Gin Gin where it was time for lunch. The quality of my sausage roll had me concerned that it may return with reinforcements for a close inspection of my boots in a few hours. However all was well and I suffered no after effects. We stopped in the now well known town of Childers to bid farewell, safe journey etc. to each other. Ron carried on south and I turned left and 40 km later was at the seaside at Woodgate . The final 20 km disappeared in about 8 minutes which says something about the good quality road, the lack of a highway patrol and the effortless cruising ability of the GS.

I had a very pleasant week in Woodgate with my good friends Evelyn and Terry. One day we drove a few klicks down the beach (in a 4WD) for a BBQ lunch, and had the entire beach all to ourselves. Each day started off with a walk along the beach. If I didn’t like the view all I had to do was rotate 180 degrees and see if there was any differences. Evenings were spent on the dune watching the dolphins frolic just offshore and topping up each other’s wine glass. Most days however were spent lifting heavy things and making sure I didn’t fall off the new house. Like most “Queenslanders” it is built a fair distance above ground level (about 4 metres) and I was often that distance up scaffolding helping to install the roof beams. The views however were worth the occasional fright. All the way out to Fraser Island and up to the Three Hummocks near Bundy. By the end of the week the beams and rafters were up and I needed a rest. While I was having lunch downstairs (in the shade, we needed it) Dave the builder spoke up.
“Jim” he said.
“Yair” said I, adopting a Queensland accent.
“You’re heading back to Canberra next Monday are you?” he asked.
“Yair” said I.
“To start work?” he asked.
“No” said I.
“To a girlfriend?” he asked.
“No” said I
“Then” asked Dave “WHY?”
In other words why was I leaving this sub-tropical wonderland with warm days, pleasant nights, fresh fruit, veges, seafood, great pubs and pleasant people?

During my three day return journey I had cause to remember Dave’s question at regular intervals. The Sunday before my departure it was snowing in Canberra and a massive Southerly outbreak was heading to Queensland. I left Woodgate on the Monday at 7.30 and within an hour I was cold and I just never warmed up. I headed inland through Biggenden, Kingaroy and over the Bunya Mountains. Excellent roads, very little traffic, no cops, no bikes, no rain and very little cloud but it was never going to warm up and I had a strong headwind all the way home. The Bunya Mtns. are well worth a return visit. A ridge thickly covered with rain forest at least 400 metres above the surrounding farms. Some excellent views to the South and East. And very steep and narrow bitumen roads littered with leaves, twigs, branches etc. after the high winds the night before. Dropping off the range I became a bit geographically embarrassed before getting on the right track at Oakey and detouring around the back of Toowoomba.

Now I was on the New England Highway, the only problem was it would lead me to the southern latitudes. A late lunch at Warwick and then it was onward bypassing Stanthorpe, home of the Smith family of New England Insurance Brokers. They had plenty of business after the Tasmanian Safari, I wondered if they were busy processing claims after this latest Safari. Through the Granite Belt now, great scenery but too cold for any serious sight seeing, I needed a warm bedroom. Tenterfield was far enough. I booked into a Motel, then wandered down the street to the Willow Tree Café for an early dinner. Then to a newsagent for the Sydney Morning Herald and a Two Wheels.

Day 2 started off with 50% cloud cover and about 5 degrees. The Sydney Morning Herald was slightly beneficial here when shoved down the front of my sweatshirt. The old derros in Hyde Park used to reckon that one issue underneath and one on top contributed to a comfortable night. (as did one or two flagons of Royal Reserve Port). Half an hour out of town and I saw my first snow on the southern side of Bolivia Mt. Also the clouds were thickening. Maybe I should have headed east down the Bruxner Highway to Casino and then down the Pacific Highway. It would have been wetter and longer but a few degrees warmer. Turn right at Glen Innes and I was on my way to morning tea at Inverell. I stopped off here to visit a gem merchant friend and warmed myself with a brew and the sight of hundreds of sparkling Sapphires and Zircons. The day wasn’t improving so I headed off to Delungra and Bingara. I had only been gone 10 minutes and it was raining and I was on road works, it was suddenly a bit slippery! All those I had overtaken getting out of Inverell were now overtaking me, Bugger! Then the rain stopped, the road surface was back to normal and I cruised off to Bingara with some decent scenery to look at.

With only 10 km to go before Bingara I came around a corner to find more road work. Wet, orange dirt which led to a puckering of my fundamental orifice. Then I came over a small concrete bridge. The instant I was off it I knew I was on an entirely different road surface. Wet clay with a zilch coefficient of friction; I knew I was going to go down, it was only a question of when. Finally the back wheel accomplished what it had been trying to do for some time, which is, to overtake the front wheel. Unlike our erstwhile Prez, I was able to achieve an instant recall of the entire event. We (Red Dwarf and I) went down with a thump on our left sides.

I saw the bike pirouette away from me on the left hand cylinder. Then everything went blank. I stood up, still couldn’t see so pushed up the visor. Still couldn’t see very well, so took off my specs. That was better, with all the excitement I must have been exhaling at a rapid rate. Now came the big test, could I lift up the Big Ugly Fat Ffffellow. Last year we all saw how to pick up a K1200LT, so I used the same technique. Heave on the left handlebar and up she came, no worries. However the bike was facing the way we had come and chucking a uee on this surface was out of the question.

I hopped on board and went to start up, no way! Bother I thought, must have broken something; then I found I was still in third gear. I very gingerly made my way at a walking pace down to the recently crossed bridge and proceeded to reverse my direction. Slick clay on concrete is no laughing matter. Now I was heading south on the extreme left side of the road where some bulldozer tracks remained. After about a kilometer I came across the bulldozer and three of his mates taking up most of the road. With heart in mouth I had to get into the middle of the road to avoid them. Then I was on the bitumen and 5ks later I was at the Park at Bingara where a hydraulic leak was definitely needed, as was a physical check of the bike. No worries apart from a slight chamfer to the pannier and head protection bar, and a big orange/brown stripe down my left hand side. And for those interested I had no idea as to the internal condition of my riding suit.

Now it was time to continue south through Barraba, Manilla, Gunnedah and all the way to the Commercial Hotel at Gulgong. Between Manilla and Gunnedah is a back road past the Keepit Dam. Bitumen all the way I thought, no way! More road repairs, not clay or gravel but rocks!!! Bigger than fist sized and being dropped out of a truck as we went past. The bloke ahead of me in a Mercedes wasn’t very happy and told the road crew what he thought! Around the next corner we came across the roller which was flattening the surface somewhat. I was seriously concerned about slicing open a tyre. I stopped off for a toasted sambo and a brew at Mullaley and watched the clouds gathering. It was now less than 10 degrees and there was no warmth in the rapidly dropping sun. Southward I went over the Liverpool Range, through Coolah and on to Gulgong. The occasional shower of rain may have washed some dirt off but didn’t help in the heating department. I stuck my head into the bar at the Hotel. They all recognized me and wanted to know where all my mates were. It just goes to show the impression we made on the locals three and a half weeks previously. I asked the barman for some anti-freeze and a room in that order. No worries on either count. A 5 oz glass of Morris’ Port helped and then off to my room to get ready for dinner. Downstairs for another Port and a local walked in with the news that Gulgong had just had it’s coldest day on record: 7 degrees max. I spent a lot of time in front of the heater, had a few drinks and a very satisfying steak and three veg. plus chips. Sleep that night was fitful, I had an electric blanket but I needed a Doona not a couple of thin blankets and bedspread.

Up early next morning for a dingo’s breakfast (almost, I had a cuppa). Then it was out to Wellington and Cowra. After Molong I had a glance through the breaking clouds towards Mt Canobolas and it was looking quite snowbound. Bloody hell, I was cold and the grey clouds were getting close to the ground.

A late breakfast at Cowra and, such pleasure, there was an empty table right next to the heater. Half an hour later it was time to go, only an hour and forty minutes left I hoped. I have a very good collection of mountaineering books, many of them with graphic descriptions of hypothermia and frostbite. I knew damn well what some of the symptoms of hypothermia are and I wasn’t very far removed from them. Departing Cowra I got a great attack of the shakes which affected the bike’s handling somewhat. I stirred myself up somehow and the closer to Canberra the sunnier it became. Through Boorowa and I was less than an hour from home. And then, around a corner, what do I see but more bloody roadwork. Wet, yellow dirt that felt similar to yesterday’s excitement. Down through the gears all the way to first, out with the outriggers and all the cars I had overtaken went straight past me.

Finally I was back on terra firma and there was no more excitement. Home sweet home looked mighty inviting. But so did an evening walk along the beach at Woodgate. I find I am still asking myself the big question, Why?

Additional notes: I only saw one other motorcycle during the entire three days and that was a postie in Toowoomba.

I only saw one cop and that was on the Highway south of Toowoomba. He gave me a close inspection as we passed but didn’t turn round to follow me.

I didn’t have any wildlife jumping out in front of me. Even the birds were staying indoors.

Jeez it was cold!

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